La Cantinta Havana Cafe
(Clarendon, inexpensive). Cuban restaurants, except in cities like
Miami and New York, seem to be a phenomenon of the ‘60s, when the initial
wave of Cubans fleeing Castro immigrated to the US. The handsome new location
of a restaurant that has been a long-time favorite of the local Cuban community
might be a sign that this hearty, flavorful cuisine is coming back into
fashion.
Even though main-course portions are large, don’t neglect the
appetizers. (Service is slow, so you might need them.) The best is the tamal
preparado, a light and flavorful corn tamale enclosing a filling of ham and
pork. A good way to try several of the others is to order the appetizer
combination, an almost grease-free meat empanada, very good fried yucca,
and a ham croquette. For a main course, it’s hard to resist the puerco
asado—almost the Cuban national dish—of roast pork, marinated and
then roasted in the oven until it is
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Gloria and Arnaldo Rodriguez own La Cantinita's Havana Cafe,
newly relocated to the Clarendon section of Arlington.
meltingly tender. No local Cuban restaurant does it better.
Bistec criollo, steak marinated and fried with onions, is also very
good, as is the ropa vieja, or "old rags," shredded beef cooked with tomato
sauce and herbs. The side dishes are a necessary part of a Cuban meal. Each
main dish is accompanied by black beans and rice, but don’t forget the
fried green or sweet plantains, yucca with garlic sauce, and fried potatoes.
Sangria by the pitcher is a perfect drink with the food.
La Cantinita’s Havana Cafe, 3100 Clarendon Boulevard;
703/524-3611. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 11 pm, Saturday 4 to 11 pm,
Sunday 4 to 10 pm. MC, V.
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